Prague - Day Four And Five

Our fourth day in Prague was Wednesday the 30th of November. We started the day by heading down to the Old Town Square to do the Sandeman free walking tour, as we have done the London and Paris ones and found them to be a very good way to put a lot of what we've seen into context.

While we waited for the tour to start, we wandered around the Christmas markets again. For a mid-morning snack, we wandered up to one of the more unique stands where a guy was using a machine to turn whole potatoes into thin slices and then deep frying them. He was serving these up in paper cones, fresh and hot and bursting with delicious fat.

[caption id="attachment_1183" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A delicious cross between fries and chips"][/caption]

And then the tour was under way with our guide, Kate, who was was an Australian who had lived in Prague since the early 90s just after the fall off communism. For three hours she took us around the old and Jewish towns and filled our brains with more information than they could hold. From defenestrations to Hussites to Nazism to Communism, it was a brilliant tour that made me fall in love with the Czech Republic and admire their strength and the long battle that the Czechs have fought to have a country of their own.

[caption id="attachment_1184" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A close-up of the astronomical clock"][/caption]

We enjoyed it so much that we spent the afternoon doing the tour of the Prague castle with Kate. Mist was falling over the city as we climbed to the top of the hill upon which the castle cathedral sits, so the view wasn't the best. The St Vitus cathedral is spectacular though.

[caption id="attachment_1185" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The fog descending on Prague"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1186" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="St Vitus Cathedral"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1187" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Mosaic on the St Vitus cathedral"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1188" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The imposing façade of St Vitus"][/caption]

 

At the end of our tour, we took the tram back to our place and collapsed, exhausted after a full day of walking. We went to a nautical themed restaurant across the road from our place (in one of the less busy areas of Prague). I ordered a meat platter for a starter, which was a massive plate of various cold hams and after that we shared a big plate of ribs.

They do not scrimp at all on the portion size in Prague and at the end of a long and tiring and cold day, there is nothing better than chowing down on a massive plate of meat accompanied by the very good Czech beer.

As we entered our fifth day in Prague we realised that we had not yet seen the Astronomical clock in the Old Town square chiming, despite the fact that it does so every hour and we had been past it nearly every day we had been in the city. So we entered the church across the square and looked around and then came back out to watch the old clock do its thing.

After this and a bit of shopping, we crossed the Charles bridge to the 'little town' and wandered around there. Here we found a very graffiti covered wall that's known as the Lennon wall as it must have once had his face painted on it, but that has now been covered over many times with various slogans of peace.

[caption id="attachment_1189" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Lennon Wall"][/caption]

We meandered about and eventually found ourselves climbing up the hill of the Prague castle. We explored for a while at the top, eventually finding our way to a restaurant that had been recommended to us by our guide the day before, Klášterní pivovar Strahov.

[caption id="attachment_1190" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Whose idea was it to climb this?"][/caption]

We stopped here for an early dinner as they had some items on the menu which are a bit more adventurous. Their beer was also very good and is brewed in large copper stills at the far end of the restaurant. I went ahead and ordered a beer/onion soup with a blue cheese smeared piece of toast as a starter, as well as a plate of bread and cheeses, including the somewhat scary 'beer cheese'. The cheeses were an incredibly fitting complement to the beers.

[caption id="attachment_1191" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The cheese platter and onion soup"][/caption]

By the time the goulash with traditional boiled dumplings arrived, we were quite full, but managed to share the dish and clean the plate (as, once again, it was very good). I want to stress how much I really do love the dining experience in Prague - you barge in, grab a seat, order a beer, light a cigarette (and yes, I have quit smoking back in London) and just relax and enjoy.

[caption id="attachment_1192" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Goulash with Knedlíky dumplings"][/caption]

A Wee Year End Update

Hello Reader(s)!

I do hope that this festive time of year finds you celebrating something worth celebrating, regardless of your personal belief system. For those in the Northern hemisphere, I hope you have found some place warm during these cold, long nights. For those in the South, please remember to wear sunblock and not get too burnt.

After a very nice Christmas of drinking and eating in Newcastle, I'm back in the great gravity well that is London and its surrounds, facing the last few days of the year 2011 - a year which I am very sad to wave farewell and bid adieu to.

It has, all tolled and tallied, been a very fine year. Along with my many accomplishments of travel and personal growth, I have given life to something I had not expected. This blog; a repository for my photos and thoughts on my travels; a memoir that I hope to pore over in the years to come; a journal to inform my mother of my various movements has unexpectedly been read and enjoyed by a random handful of strangers on the internet.

To those lovely few who have read and enjoyed my words, I humbly thank you from the bottom of my heart, as it is you that have inspired me to keep writing and sharing and improving. I hope that you will bear with me as I plod along with stories of my continued adventures, as I hope there will be at least another 40 years of them to come.

I'd also like to especially thank my tireless photographer and travel companion, Kristen, who takes the majority of photographs which I then play around with and pass off as my own. She now has a brand new, second hand DSLR camera to play around with, so I'm hoping the quality of shots should improve with time and practice.

In the new year, I resolve to also improve in my writing and photo processing skills and even put together a few more videos of my travels. I will also try to increase the frequency of my updates as I'm still working through my Prague trip at the moment.

I'll leave it there, but please remember, your suggestions and comments are always welcome and can only help me in my continual quest for improvement.

Prague - Day Three - Kutna Hora

Having conquered most of Prague, we chose to use our third day invading the outlying village of Kutna Hora. This involved going down to the main train station and attempting to figure out the timetables, followed by an apprehensive trip through the crumbling ex-soviet countryside in trains that grew smaller and smaller. I do like to make it sound rather more intrepid than it really was, but our eventual arrival after stepping off our tiny train onto the railway tracks outside a small shed that passed for the station was further from modern civilisation that I have been in quite a while.

[caption id="attachment_1006" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A beautiful synagogue we passed on the way to the station"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1007" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Arrival at Kutna Hora"][/caption]

Despite its crumbling outskirts, Kutna Hora is a rather lovely and functional little town with a long and colourful history and some very friendly and accommodating locals. When we eventually found our way into the information centre we were given a friendly run-down of all the best places to see. Thus armed, we stepped out to have lunch in an old and atmospheric beer hall.

[caption id="attachment_1008" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The lovely and cosy beer hall"][/caption]

 

The reason for the almost deserted streets of the town became obvious as we realised they must all be sheltering in the warm of gorgeous pubs like this one. I was served up a very generous plate of assorted meat and Kristen had a very sufficient meal of wild boar in plum sauce. You would think we would be getting sick of these meat-heavy meals by now, but I shouldn't need to remind anyone how cold it was outside.

[caption id="attachment_1009" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Wild boar in prune sauce"][/caption]

Fortified against the chill, we strode along past the old silver mines to a cathedral towering over the river valley below. The inside of the cathedral was beautiful, but also very grim in a way that I felt befit central Europe. The whole place was a bit of a medieval boom town as it sat upon one of the richest sources of silver at the time.

[caption id="attachment_1010" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Looking down the valley"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1011" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The statue lined boulevard leading to the cathedral"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1012" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A wide shot of the cathedral"][/caption]

One of the main and most exciting reasons for our visit was the see the bone chapel, or ossuary in the North side of Kutna Hora. Inside of the small chapel are the remains of some 40,000 people, their bones piled into pyramids and crafted into a chandelier, a coat of arms and various ornaments around the room. It was unlike anything that I have ever seen before, which it makes it worth the entire trip to the Czech Republic on its own for me!

[caption id="attachment_1013" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The bone chapel"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1014" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A coat of arms. I love the bird pecking the skull."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1015" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="I was in absolute awe"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1016" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A chalice of bones"][/caption]

Following our triumphant return to Prague, we settled in for dinner at a restaurant dedicated to World War 2 (from all the WW2 paraphernalia all over the walls) and had pork. More delicious, wonderful, amazing pork.

[caption id="attachment_1017" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Leaving to go back to Prague"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1018" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Another satisfying meal"][/caption]

Prague - Day Two

We arose to meet our second day in Prague after a long and refreshing sleep in our warm apartment. To wake ourselves up, we took a stroll up the nearby Vyšehrad, which is a very formidable fortress to the South of town with high walls affording a tremendous view.

[caption id="attachment_984" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="That's me surveying my Kingdom from on high"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_985" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Kristen blocking the view"][/caption]

We then caught the tram into town and got off at Wenceslas Square, which is lined with French themed art nouveau buildings. Here we stopped by one of the slightly suspicious looking street food stands.

[caption id="attachment_986" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The scary food stand"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_987" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The French art nouveau façades"][/caption]

The stands offer an array of fried foods and local sausages for rock bottom prices. They're not actually too bad if you're in a hurry and just want something simple to chow on, but the Xmas markets provide better at this time of year.

[caption id="attachment_988" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Marzipan at the Xmas markets"][/caption]

We had a bit of a wander around the old town, stopping every 50 metres to marvel at some other amazing building. When we arrived at the Old Town Square in the daylight, we stood and marvelled at the astronomical clock and saw the people in the tower at the top. What better way to see the town than climb up a big tower in the centre with a 360 view? Right, so up we went.

[caption id="attachment_989" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Old Town Square"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_990" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="From the top of the clock tower. These two towers are uneven."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_991" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Looking down on the Xmas market"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_992" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Looking from the tower to the Prague Castle"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_993" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Looking back up at the clock tower"][/caption]

 

Following this, we wandered into the Jewish area, where more fantastic buildings awaited us. A few days later when we did the free tour of Prague, we learned a lot about the tragic history of this area and the Jews there.

[caption id="attachment_994" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="One of the synagogues in the Jewish quarter"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_995" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Jewish Cemetery"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_996" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A statue based on Franz Kafka's Beetle"][/caption]

As the sun started to set, we crossed the Charles bridge with its beautiful statues - It's one of the essential and unmissable features of Prague. By the time we got to the end, we were spent from our day of walking and so retreated back along the riverside home.

[caption id="attachment_997" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Charles IV I assume"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_998" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="One of the statues on the Charles Bridge"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_999" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="On the Charles Bridge, the figure is polished by tourists rubbing it"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1000" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="More statues on the Charles Bridge"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1001" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Me rubbing the dog, which is apparently unlucky. Oops."][/caption]

For dinner, we went 5 minutes down the road to Restaurace Pod Slavínem which has a small selection of beers, but the menu is exhaustive. We asked the waiter if 1.5kg of pork knuckle would be enough for two, and it most certainly was. When the monstrosity arrived, it was everything I had ever hoped for. I should mention that I'm never considering my personal health when tackling a dish; the only thing that matters is the flavour. This meal had such a simple but effective charm to it and it rates as one of the best things I've ever tasted.

[caption id="attachment_1002" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The pork knuckle"][/caption]

We managed to find some room for dessert as well - why not, when the final bill was less than £15?

[caption id="attachment_1003" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="OK, that was a little more than we expected."][/caption]

Prague - Day One

It turned out on hindsight that neither Kristen nor I could figure out what were were doing in the Czech Republic. This was after we had been there a couple of days, and were presently sitting in a café eating cake.

"So whose idea was this?"

Neither of us had an answer. I was the one who booked a week of paid leave at the end of November and then jumped on http://www.kayak.co.uk/explore/ and just kinda threw a figurative dart at the map. Any which way you look at it, we somehow found ourselves in Prague at the beginning of Winter.

Of course, the process of arriving was the same old process we have become used to by now: awake at 4am after a last minute rush to pack bags; several dodgy night bus changes to Victoria station; train ride to Gatwick in the pre-dawn bleariness and finally, a painful and sluggish walk through security and onto a plane. It would have been hard for me to imagine a year ago, but this process has lost the glow of excitement and become routine.

When, two hours later, the plane swoops over the Czech countryside and touches down in Prague there's a moment where you just look over and say "We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto." Stepping out of the bubble that is the Easyjet plane, one suddenly enters the world of the international airport terminal and things steadily get more and more foreign until you're standing at a taxi stand, bewildered and trying to figure out how you're going to get to your accommodation given your absolute inability to read any signs.

Luckily for us, our very kind host was waiting at the airport with a car to take us off to our apartment. The apartment which we paid £100 for 6 nights. I'm not even kidding when I say that's cheaper that my rent in London. Our landlord was pretty amazing too as he sat us down for half an hour and showed us all the best places to visit on a map.

It was about 1pm when we finally bundled up as warm as we could and ventured out of the airlock. The day was chilly, but clear and sunny so we took a brisk walk into town from our position South of the city and through Charles Square, turning left there towards the Vlatva river, to continue our walk along there. I do very much love cities and their rivers; it's a very European observation after growing up in seaside New Zealand where cities were founded without need for a river to supply them with water. London has its Thames, Paris its Seine, Rome its Tiber.

[caption id="attachment_821" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The new dance hall building"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_833" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Panorama of the Vltava River"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_822" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The riverside buildings"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_823" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Some of the façades are beautiful and run down, but a lot is being done to repair and preserve now"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_824" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="It was a stunningly clear day, but very cold."][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_825" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="Street art is the new expression in Europe"][/caption]

Anyhow, by this stage we hadn't eaten yet and our stomach wouldn't let us continue without immediate appeasement so we stumbled into the Café Louvre. This was a very loosely French themed café with a long history and I have to say I highly recommend it. At this point we ran into our first "cultural encounter" which are moments when the tourist is suddenly faced with interacting instead of merely observing. Hilarity and embarrassment often follow quickly after.

In Prague, one does not wait to be seated. Just walk in, find a place (even at an occupied table) and squeeze in. Menus are brought to the table and then often bread. You will have to pay for the bread if you eat it - it'll cost you about £1 so don't cry about it. Eateries often allow smoking - as a casual smoker I am VERY fond of this, but I guess non-smokers despise it. Oh yeah, and the food is really cheap so I just rounded up to the nearest 100Kc for a tip. And that is the single most helpful paragraph you'll read on Prague.

So what did I eat? A traditional dish of beef in thick gravy with cream and cranberry and a dense boiled dumpling bread. Kristen had rosemary and garlic marinated pork tenderloin with ham dumplings and apple cabbage. This was a very delicious meal and after all we had heard about Czech food being terrible, it was a surprise and a steal too, with the final bill of less that £16 including drinks.

[caption id="attachment_826" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="This is a traditional dish - svíčková na smetaně"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_827" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The dumplings and garlic pork. So full of flavour!"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_828" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Café Louvre"][/caption]

Thoroughly satisfied, we walked up the river further to the Old Town where we found the Xmas market in the gorgeous square. We could resist gorging ourselves on the Old Prague ham which was being cooked over hot coals and the mulled wine was delicious. The fond memories of the year before in Cologne came back to me and I wonder how I'll ever appreciate Xmas without a Germanic market to visit.

[caption id="attachment_830" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Old Town market"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_831" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="The Old Prague piggy"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_832" align="aligncenter" width="620" caption="A kind of sweet pastry called Trdelník"][/caption]

As it was getting late after our meandering around, we walked back home and ducked into a bakery and a supermarket to stock up on unbelievable cheap snacks and cakes.